Nature's bounty revealed
"Wildman" forages for
his next meal
Discover
The Stamford Advocate
May 28, 2006
By Alexandra Fenwick
Milena Raynaud

Milena Raynaud, center, and 8-year-old Richard Greenbaum, along with other members of their group, listen to naturalist 'Wildman' Steve Brill as he talks about a tulip tree flower during a wild food and ecology tour yesterday at the Bartlett Arboretum & Gardens in Stamford.

Photo by Chris Preovolos

STAMFORD — Naturalist, author, self-trained forager and self-described "Wildman" Steve Brill gave one of his signature wild food and ecology tours at Bartlett Arboretum & Gardens yesterday.

Brill was famously arrested in Central Park in 1986 for picking plants during a nature tour he was leading. As Brill tells it, two undercover park rangers posing as husband and wife joined his tour one day. As he munched on a crispy green dandelion leaf, "every uniformed park ranger in New York City jumped out of the bushes lest I try to climb up a tree and handcuffed me lest I bop them on the head with a dandelion."

Brill was charged with criminal mischief for removing vegetation from the park. After serving what he called, "Wildman's Five-Borough Salad" on the steps of the courthouse to members of the media who also ate up his story, the charges were eventually dropped. Soon after, Brill was asked to work as a park guide by the parks commissioner who had him arrested. He did that for four years before becoming a freelance Wildman again. Today, he gives nature tours to youth groups, garden clubs and children's birthday parties.

Although not arrested at Bartlett yesterday, Brill was interrogated on the subject of local plant life by more than 20 amateur naturalists. Wearing his distinctive pith helmet and wire-rimmed eyeglasses, he wended down the trail and stopped every few feet to pluck a leaf or stem and announce its virtues.

wine-cap mushrooms

Freshly picked wine cap mushrooms were headed to the Stamford home of Leslie Lewis, who, after attending yesterday's tour at the Bartlett Arboretum & Gardens, planned to sauté and serve them.

Photo by Chris Preovolos

Along the way, he acted out anecdotes and dispensed medical advice, recipes, ways to poison a hated boss (buttercups), some Greek mythology and an encyclopedic knowledge of each plant's health benefits.

Carol Levine, a volunteer member of the board at Bartlett and a field botany teacher at the New York Botanical Garden who helped lead yesterday's tour, said the arboretum doesn't encourage people to pick plants for consumption because of safety concerns. But having signed release forms before the tour began, tour members munched on a variety of wild vegetation that Brill suggested.

At the start of the tour, Brill produced a jeweler's loupe with which to inspect a sprig of chickweed, so-called for its chicken-attracting corn-on-the cob flavor. He extended it to a group of four young boys, who eyed it suspiciously before tasting its leaves.

"You have to try it even if you're chicken because chickens love chickweed," Brill said.

By tour's end, the group was treated to a menu that included wood sorrel, violet leaves, spicebush, Northern bay leaf, jewelweed for the mosquito bites they suffered along the way and a whiff of the inedible but highly pungent skunk cabbage.

Midway through the foraging lesson, Brill pinched off a leaf of a spindly stemmed plant garlic mustard and presented it to the crowd.

"It tastes disgusting!" Matthew Lichtenberg, 8, yelled as he spit it out.

Despite his brush with garlic mustard, which he pronounced the worst tasting plant on the tour, Matthew said he thought other kids would enjoy the experience.

"I would show them — what was that thing that tastes like corn?" he asked. "Yeah, chickweed. And if they liked it, I would recommend they go on the tour."

Leslie Lewis, of Stamford, took notes and filled a bag with wine cap mushrooms she planned to sauté and serve. Lewis said she often hikes through Bartlett and is familiar with many of the wild plants Brill identified.

"It's always good to know about your environment — how much more rich our surroundings are than we have an idea of," Lewis said. "We're so separated from our surroundings and this is an easy way to reconnect."

With urban sprawl and what he described as many non-ecofriendly politicians in power, it is especially important for children to learn about plants, Brill said.

"No one knows this," he said. "This stuff is delicious, healthful and puts you in touch with nature. It gives an incentive to protect it. If you respect the environment, you protect it."