The Wild Vegetarian is not only a cookbook, but also a wonderful reference book. Most of the "exotic" ingredients called for are explained in some detail, and the book is organized in a way that makes its use, as well as its reading, an absolute pleasure. For example, plants listed in the Table of Contents are not only grouped by type, but are organized in the chronological order in which they are ready to be foraged during the year and during each season. There is a separate section entitled "Herb and Spice User's Guide," which lists and describes the use of not only some of the commonly used spices (cardamom, cayenne pepper, celery seed, etc.), but a wide variety of more unusual spices and herbs (goutweed, sassafras, wild carrot seed, etc.) as well. There's also a "quick guide" to making dairy-free cheeses—even a "quick guide" to wild wine! The recipes run the course from original, totally different dishes, to some of the more standard, time-tested recipes that have simply been enhanced by the use of nontraditional additions or substitutions for more familiar ingredients.

Another wonderful feature is that although the entire book is vegan, those with an ovo-lacto preference will find that dairy substitutions are always easy. Mind you, this book does not grant license to run out and begin tearing up wild plants wherever they may be found in order to satisfy a desire for culinary adventure. Steve Brill is a staunch advocate for the protection of the natural environment and the preservation of the places where many of the wild foods utilized in his book may be found.

To enjoy The Wild Vegetarian Cookbook, two prerequisites are necessary. First, you must have an interest in wild foods. Brill's recipes are not just made with wild foods, they taste wild-no namby-pamby flavors here, every dish is robust and intense. Second, you should be a cook who is not afraid to follow fairly complex recipes with multiple ingredients. A new cook might be overwhelmed by these recipes, although if one were willing to try them and follow the instructions appropriately, success is assured.

Ramp or wild leek season has come again, and we are currently inundated with huge quantities of this odiferous herb. Brill obviously knows how "rampantly" this vegetable grows as he has created not just one or two recipes for it, but 32! The recipes range from salads, sauces and appetizers, to pickles and even wine. As we write this article, a ramp risotto casserole is baking in the oven, smelling wildly appetizing. We've already tried the tasty "Ramp Pesto," and were delighted with the "Bearnaise Sauce a la Brill."

And for all of you who may lament not having the option of a truly excellent vegan Vichyssoise, cry no more! The ramp version of this traditional French potato and leek soup is surely cause for celebration. C'est magnfique!

Last fall, hen-of-the-woods mushrooms were growing out of the woodwork in our area. The Wild Vegetarian Cookbook has over 20 recipes for these natural treasures. While every recipe was reliably excellent, "Cajun Hen" and "Sesame Hen" quickly became our favorites. Cajun Hen produces a spicy dish very reminiscent of chicken and can serve as a wonderful base for many other recipes. After preparing our bounty with Brill's recipe, we froze it and used it all winter. Sesame Hen was at least as good, and we found that we could vary it by using almond butter or even peanut butter instead of tahini, with equally excellent effects.

There seems to be nothing in this book that is anything other than straightforward, each section brimming with fresh ideas, sound advice, a wonderful sense of adventure and even humor. The Wild Vegetarian Cookbook has certainly become one of the crown jewels in our collection of cookbooks, and easily garnishes the coveted Five Star rating (Extraordinary) from these reviewers.